2022 brought both a changing of the guard at the Academy of Motion Picture Arts and Sciences, and a transformative year for the film industry, which is still coping with fallout from the pandemic.
In terms of the ongoing question of will the Oscars become better at recognizing a more diverse set of nominees, it is all in the hands of the voters.
The edict that “diversity sells” doesn’t seem to have much impact on what projects the awards body chooses to honor. The Academy tends to lean into prestige projects over accessible box office hits. There is a chance that as many as four big-budget sequels make it into the Best Picture category — not just for being popular, but for being some of the best reviewed films of the year — and they all made it a point to have ensembles that are racially diverse. Even smaller hits like “Everything Everywhere All at Once,” now A24’s highest grossing release, has stayed front and center through the year, partly as a major win for Asian-American representation.
If the newly released Oscar shortlists are any indication, Oscar voters do seem keen this year on widening the scope of the filmmakers they recognize. Out of the 15 films on the Documentary Feature shortlist, eight are directed by women, and four are directed by people of color. Meanwhile, the International Film category includes films from five different continents, and although European countries represent half the list, quite a few of the films those countries chose to represent them focus on characters from underrepresented backgrounds (i.e. “Saint Omer” (France), “Holy Spider” (Denmark)).
All in all, the voting body for the Oscars is still 66 percent male and 81 percent white, so the push to significantly diversify its membership and governing bodies in order to have a group of voters that give eligible films equitable consideration is not over. But 2022 provided more than enough awards contenders that both kept diversity and inclusion in mind, and succeeded on every metric that makes an Oscar-worthy film.
Here is a look at these prospective nominees’ shots in the major categories.
History: While the 2022 Best Picture nominees were not as racially diverse in front of and/or behind the camera as the previous year, “CODA” winning was a major step in the right direction for disability representation (the film centers on a mostly deaf cast). Nominee “Drive My Car” also indicated that Academy voters continued to broaden their horizons, considering more films with predominantly Asian casts, as well as more films not in English.
Although it is still true that six of the last 10 Best Picture winners were directed by filmmakers of color— “12 Years a Slave,” “Birdman or (The Unexpected Virtue of Ignorance),” “Moonlight,” “The Shape of Water,” “Parasite,” and “Nomadland”— half of those still focus on white, cishet protagonists.
The state of the race: As previously mentioned, there is a much more diverse pool of contenders for Best Picture this year, but the final nominations are not likely to reflect that. Only the Daniels’s “Everything Everywhere All at Once” seems like a surefire nominee that would contribute to inclusion efforts. James Cameron’s “Avatar: The Way of Water” and Joseph Kosinski’s “Top Gun: Maverick” have diverse casts, but that is hard to see in the former, with the majority of the characters being the blue Na’vi people (who represent an indigenous population), and the latter does not give its characters of color much to do.
But there is a guarantee that 10 films will be nominated, so those films on the bubble for the presumed ninth and tenth spots on the nominees list, like Gina Prince-Bythewood’s “The Woman King,” S.S. Rajamouli’s “RRR,” and Ryan Coogler’s “Black Panther: Wakanda Forever” would all contribute to making the Best Picture category more representative of the diversity of awards worthy films released in 2022.
Steven Spielberg’s “The Fabelmans,” an auto-fictional drama about his family upbringing, may be the frontrunner, but “Everything Everywhere All at Once” is giving it a real run for its money.
History: Jane Campion’s win for “The Power of the Dog” ended a four-year streak where a filmmaker of color won the Oscar in this category: Chloé Zhao for “Nomadland” (2021), Bong Joon Ho for “Parasite” (2020), Alfonso Cuarón for “Roma” (2019), and Guillermo del Toro for “The Shape of Water” (2018). However, it also continued the trend of women winning the award that had eluded them for over 80 years. Notable too that Ryusuke Hamaguchi was also nominated last year, continuing the recent trend of nominating more international feature directors, in addition to honoring more directors of color.
The state of the race: Similar to Best Picture, the contenders that most represent progress on the diversity front are likely fighting for that final fifth spot on the nominations list. Slightly understandable when Best Director is shaping up to be a race between Steven Spielberg and James Cameron, the two most influential filmmakers of the last 40 years. Right now they are likely to be joined by Martin McDonagh (“The Banshees of Inisherin”) and Todd Field (“TÁR”), with Daniel Scheinert and Daniel Kwan (“Everything Everywhere All at Once”) facing an uphill battle in terms of the recognition of co-directors. Sarah Polley (“Women Talking”) and Gina Prince-Bythewood (“The Woman King”) have the two best shots of keeping the streak of female nominees going. S.S. Rajamouli (“RRR”) and Ruben Östlund (English-language “Triangle of Sadness”) could represent the international contingent (although neither of their films were submitted for Best International Feature). Time will tell what progressive trends, if any, continue with the 2023 Oscar nominations for Best Director.
History: Best Actress has always been the category that most indicates the dearth of lead roles for women, and how that has translated into only one woman of color ever accepting the Oscar. Andra Day, Cynthia Erivo, Yalitza Aparicio, Ruth Negga, Quvenzhané Wallis, and Viola Davis are the only actresses of color to be nominated in the category within the last decade. No actresses of color were nominated in this category last year.
The state of the race: The current narrative for the upcoming 95th Oscars is that Best Actress will either go to Cate Blanchett for her work in “TÁR” or Michelle Yeoh for her performance in “Everything Everywhere All at Once.” That means either the Australian actress is set to win her second Best Actress Oscar or that Yeoh will become the first ever East Asian actress to win the category. Outside of the frontrunners, “The Woman King” star Viola Davis is poised to receive her third nomination in the category, and Danielle Deadwyler is likely to make it in for her celebrated work as activist Mamie Till-Mobley in “Till.” Their only competition for nomination slots are Golden Globe and Critics Choice nominees Michelle Williams (“The Fabelmans”) and Margot Robbie (“Babylon”).
History: While its history still speaks to a lack of awards-worthy roles for men of color, the Best Actor category has seen a lot of progress in the past two decades when it comes to diversity. While only one woman of color has ever won Best Actress, Will Smith became the fifth Black man to win Best Actor last year, and he was nominated against fellow Best Actor winner of color Denzel Washington.
The state of the race: Best Actor is another category with four prospective nominees that seem ensured to make the final cut, and one wildcard slot that could change the diversity numbers. Currently, the frontrunners are Colin Farrell (“The Banshees of Inisherin”), Austin Butler (“Elvis”), and Brendan Fraser (“The Whale”), with “Living” star Bill Nighy comfortably trailing them, looking to build momentum in the new year. Based off Golden Globe nominations, “Babylon” star Diego Calva or “The Inspection” star Jeremy Pope could break into the category and prevent an all-white list of nominees, but more critics and prognosticators are predicting Australian actor Hugh Jackman (“The Son”) or Irish actor Paul Mescal (“Aftersun”) to take that fifth Best Actor nominee slot.
Annette Brown/Courtesy of Marvel Studios
Best Supporting Actress
History: This is the category that had the first ever actor of color to win an Oscar, “Gone With the Wind” star Hattie McDaniel. In recent years it has built off that legacy, and become the category where performers of color most shine, with half the Best Supporting Actress winners from the past decade being women of color. That stat includes last year’s winner Ariana DeBose (“West Side Story”), who was nominated against fellow Black actress “King Richard” star Aunjanue Ellis.
The state of the race: There are way too many deserving Best Supporting Actress contenders this year to predict the final nominees with any certainty, but this will likely be the acting category that best portrays how 2022 was not just a great year for films centered on racial minorities, it was also a great year for films centered on women.
Angela Bassett (“Black Panther: Wakanda Forever”), Stephanie Hsu (“Everything Everywhere All at Once”), and Hong Chau (“The Whale”) are three favorites for the nomination who also happen to be women of color. They are in the mix with actresses like Kerry Condon (“The Banshees of Inisherin”), Jessie Buckley (“Women Talking”), and Jamie Lee Curtis (“Everything Everywhere All at Once”), but the prospective nominees most on the bubble are more women of color such as Dolly De Leon (“Triangle of Sadness”) and Janelle Monáe (“Glass Onion: A Knives Out Mystery”).
Courtesy of Apple TV+
Best Supporting Actor
History: Although last year’s Best Supporting Actor nominees were not racially diverse, winner Troy Kotsur (“CODA”) became the first deaf male actor to ever win an acting Oscar.
In recent years, the category did well in organically recognizing a diverse group of nominees, with Black actors Daniel Kaluuya and Mahershala Ali both winning within the past five years.
The state of the race: Frontrunner Ke Huy Quan (“Everything Everywhere All at Once”) would be the second ever Asian actor to win in the category. The only other actor of color with a true shot of making the final cut for Best Supporting Actor nominees at the 2023 Oscars is Brian Tyree Henry for his performance in the Apple TV+ drama “Causeway,” but otherwise the category seems set to include “The Fabelmans” star Judd Hirsch and Paul Dano, “The Banshees of Inisherin” stars Brendan Gleeson and Barry Keoughan, with “Women Talking” star Ben Whishaw joining Henry right on the bubble.
Nominations for the 95th Academy Awards will be announced on Tuesday, January 24, 2023. The 95th Oscars will be held on Sunday, March 12, 2023, in Hollywood and will be televised live on ABC.
By: Marcus Jones
Title: 2023 Brings a Diverse Set of Oscar Contenders. Will the Final Nominees Reflect that?
Sourced From: www.indiewire.com/2023/01/2023-oscars-diversity-predictions-1234795585/
Published Date: Mon, 02 Jan 2023 20:30:23 +0000
THE DENIM SHIRT; ONLY THE BEST WILL LEAD YOU INTO FASHION GLORY
A stellar denim shirt is a must-have staple in any man’s wardrobe, but not all denim shirts are created equal; only the finest denim shirts for men will pave the way to sartorial greatness. As a versatile alternative to more formal shirts, the denim shirt is a valuable asset for layering; denim, renowned for its durability, breathability, and effortless style, has earned its place as one of the most beloved fabrics. While our wardrobes may already boast well-fitted jeans and classic denim jackets, denim’s versatility also extends to shirts.
The denim shirt strikes the perfect balance between relaxed and refined. Wear it as an overshirt layered over a hoodie or sweater for a laid-back vibe, or tuck it into your jeans or chinos for a polished look that’s effortlessly cool, as denim shirts are the unsung heroes of fall fashion for men, seamlessly complementing everything from tailored slacks to casual streetwear. The enduring appeal of denim-on-denim continues to be worn in far brighter places, weddings, offices, dates, and formal gatherings, where they can be worn with a tie and intelligent jacket, under a cashmere jumper, jeans and coat, and come summer, let loose with linen trousers. The denim shirt is a versatile alternative to traditional formal wear, perfect for layering and adding a rugged edge to any outfit. It’s no wonder denim is a favourite fabric among fashion enthusiasts—it’s durable, breathable, and effortlessly stylish.
Whether worn as an overshirt with a hoodie or sweater or tucked into your jeans, this denim shirt exudes effortless cool. The heavily washed denim, complete with printed stripes reminiscent of the ’90s, adds a timeless touch to any ensemble and with brands like A&F offering their take on the denim shirt, there’s no shortage of options to suit every style. With its classic silhouette and button-down collar, this rebooted version is perfect for adding texture and character to your office looks. Indeed sometimes, the shirts are crafted from heavily washed denim in a super-light shade that transports you straight back to the ’90s. Your favourite oxford shirt’s familiar silhouette and button-down collar are elevated in hardy-washed denim, adding texture and character to your office attire.
When it comes to denim shirts, there’s a style for every taste and occasion. Oversized, distressed, and light wash options exude casual charm, while structured silhouettes and dark washes lend themselves to more formal settings and evenings out. Opt for 100% cotton fabrics for breathability, but don’t shy away from a hint of spandex or elastane for added stretch and comfort. An oversized denim shirt may initially seem daunting, but with a few styling hacks, it can become a versatile staple in your transitional wardrobe, serving as both a shirt and a jacket. For a laid-back vibe, men and women can pair it with baggy contrasting denim jeans, adding a touch of runway-inspired flair. However, it’s best to steer clear of overly washed tones and contrast stitching for a more polished look.
Double denim has always been a trend, but mastering it requires a certain finesse; the key lies in the interplay of different shades of blue, determining the winning combination and brands, and have made the selection process easier by curating eye-catching ensembles that take the guesswork out of styling, pushing boundaries with the texture of denim shirts, offering a variety of options to experiment with. By playing with colour and texture, you can achieve the perfect balance for a standout look, whether pairing it with jeans, chinos, or shorts. Despite the abundance of flashy trends, there’s an undeniable charm in the versatility of an indigo-dyed shirt. It possesses a sartorial flexibility that sets it apart from other garments.
Fashion-forward individuals understand that a well-chosen denim shirt not only exudes rugged charm and confidence but also serves as a versatile solution to any wardrobe dilemma. We all know that when we first began wearing denim, well, for some of you back in the day, it was Levi’s. A brand synonymous with quality denim for over 160 years, they continue to reign supreme with their impeccable Western shirts that are crafted with the perfect fit for layering, meticulous attention to detail, and sustainably sourced fabric; Levi’s denim shirts stand as a testament
Title: THE DENIM SHIRT; ONLY THE BEST WILL LEAD YOU INTO FASHION GLORY
Sourced From: www.mensfashionmagazine.com/the-denim-shirt-only-the-best-will-lead-you-into-fashion-glory?utm_source=rss&utm_medium=rss&utm_campaign=the-denim-shirt-only-the-best-will-lead-you-into-fashion-glory
Published Date: Sun, 18 Feb 2024 20:11:56 +0000
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Valentine’s Day with Charles Tyrwhitt
Elevate Valentine’s Day Style with Charles Tyrwhitt: A Celebration of Timeless Romance
As the season of love approaches, Charles Tyrwhitt, invites you to discover the art of timeless romance and sophistication this Valentine’s Day. According to a recent poll by Interflora, only 12% of men said that they had ever been given flowers – with dads receiving 99% less flowers on Father’s day than mums do on Mother’s day. Whilst men might not be as partial to a floral arrangement, Charles Tyrwhitt thinks it’s important to remind dads that they’re cherished and we suggest something a little more timeless than flowers….
With a legacy rooted in crafting exquisite attire, Charles Tyrwhitt embodies the very essence of sophistication, offering a curated selection of meticulously designed products that epitomise style making it the ideal choice for gentlemen seeking to express their love and appreciation.
This Valentine’s Day, explore Charles Tyrwhitt’s iconic pieces designed to make hearts flutter and capture the essence of enduring love. From impeccably tailored shirts that exude confidence to luxurious silk ties that add a touch of charm, these pieces are carefully curated to elevate any gentleman’s style.
Merino V-Neck Jumper – Burgundy: £79.95
The V-neck sweaters are meticulously crafted from pure, Woolmark-certified Merino wool. Renowned for being nature’s performance fabric, Merino offers unparalleled breathability and temperature regulation, boasting the softest touch in knitwear. The minimalist design allows the fine Merino fibers to shine, with traditional ribbing on cuffs and hem for a classic touch. Pair it effortlessly with a button-down shirt for a sophisticated look
Shirt of the Season Cutaway Collar Non-Iron Mayfair Weave Shirt – White£69.95
Mid-weight and versatile, the Shirt of the Season suits every season. Natural stretch and a classic split back yoke ensure comfortable movement. The famous non-iron finish simplifies care. Smart mitred cuffs and a cutaway collar provide a contemporary edge. A perfect choice for a versatile shirt that transitions seamlessly from work to date night.
Wool Overcoat – Navy: £279.95
Introducing the smart texture trousers, seamlessly bridging the gap between chinos and suit trousers. Cut on the same block as the iconic suits, they’re versatile for both work and weekend wear. The fabric’s
Title: Valentine’s Day with Charles Tyrwhitt
Sourced From: www.mensfashionmagazine.com/valentines-day-with-charles-tyrwhitt?utm_source=rss&utm_medium=rss&utm_campaign=valentines-day-with-charles-tyrwhitt
Published Date: Wed, 14 Feb 2024 12:57:29 +0000
Three frequently asked questions about EVs, answered
This article is from The Spark, MIT Technology Review’s weekly climate newsletter. To receive it in your inbox every Wednesday, sign up here
For someone who does not own or drive a car, I sure do have a lot of thoughts about them.
I spend an inordinate amount of time thinking about transportation in general, since it’s one of the biggest areas we need to clean up to address climate change: it accounts for something like a quarter of global emissions. And the vehicles that we use to shuttle around to work, school, and the grocery store in many parts of the world are a huge piece of the problem.
Last week, MIT Technology Review hosted an event where my colleagues and I dug into a conversation about the future of batteries and the materials that go into them. We got so many great questions, and we answered quite a few of them (subscribers should check out the recording of the full event here).
But there were still a lot of questions, particularly about EVs, that we didn’t get to, so let’s take a look at a few. (I’ve edited these for length and clarity, but they came from subscribers, so thank you to everyone who submitted!)
Why is there not a bigger push for plug-in hybrids during the transition to full EVs? Could those play a role?
Hybrids are sometimes relegated to the fringes of the EV discussion, but I think they’re absolutely worth talking about.
Before we get into this, let’s get a couple of terms straight. All hybrid vehicles use both an internal-combustion engine that burns gasoline and a battery, but there are two key types to know about. Plug-in hybrids can be charged up using an EV charger and run for short distances on electricity. Conventional hybrids have a small battery to help recapture energy that would otherwise be wasted, which boosts gas mileage, but they always run on gasoline.
Any technology that helps reduce emissions immediately can help address climate change, and even a conventional hybrid will cut emissions by something like 20%.
Personally, I think plug-in hybrids in particular are a great option for people who can’t commit to an EV just yet. These vehicles often have a range of around 50 miles on electricity, so if you’re commuting short distances, nearly all your driving can be zero-emissions.
Plug-ins aren’t the perfect solution, though. For one thing, the vehicles may have higher rates of problems than both EVs and gas-powered vehicles, and they need a bit more maintenance. And some studies have shown that plug-in hybrids don’t tend to get the full emissions benefits advertised, because people use the electric mode less than expected.
Ultimately, we need to stop burning fossil fuels, so we’ll need to get used to vehicles that run without gasoline at all. But in the meantime, dipping a toe into the world of electric vehicles could be a good option for many drivers.
Will current charging technology be able to support EVs? How practical is it to bring chargers to remote areas of the country?
These questions hit on one of the biggest potential barriers to EV adoption: charging availability.
In many parts of the world, there’s a massive need to build more chargers to support the EVs already on the road, not to mention all the new ones being built and sold each year. Some agencies have recommended that there should be one public charger for every 10 EVs on the road, though factors like density and rates of at-home charging mean different communities will have different needs.
The US had about 24 EVs per charger as of the end of 2022, while the EU is at about 13, and China is among the leading nations with around eight. Improving that ratio is crucial to getting more drivers comfortable with EVs.
But building out the charging network is a big project, and one that looks different for different communities. In dense cities, many people live in apartments as opposed to single-family homes with garages, so even more public chargers will be needed to make up for the lack of at-home charging. For rural communities, or those that are less wealthy, getting any chargers built at all can be a challenge.
These so-called charging deserts often suffer from a sort of chicken-and-egg problem: there’s a lack of demand for chargers because people aren’t driving EVs, and people aren’t driving EVs because there are no chargers.
Public funding will be key to filling in gaps left by private companies installing charging networks. In the US, some money is tied to making sure that disadvantaged communities will benefit.
The bottom line is that it’s possible to make chargers available and equitable, but it’s definitely going to take a while, and it’s going to be expensive.
What about hydrogen—could that be an alternative to batteries?
I’ve been digging into this question, so stay
By: Casey Crownhart
Title: Three frequently asked questions about EVs, answered
Sourced From: www.technologyreview.com/2024/02/22/1088800/ev-faqs/
Published Date: Thu, 22 Feb 2024 09:00:00 +0000
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