8 Niche Fragrance Houses You Should Know
If your goal is to smell really fabulous and like no-one else you know, you need a niche fragrance. This expanding, influential sector of the fragrance industry has moved from the fringe to become a major trendsetter. Intimate boutiques in prestigious locations, footholds in luxury department stores and knowledgeable, attentive staff have helped give niche perfumery an edge over the predictable offer found in duty-free and on the high street. To be niche, considered distribution is vital.
With 36 years in the game, Les Senteurs has continually brought together some the best niche perfumes under one, cosy roof (currently situated at 71 Elizabeth St, Belgravia). “When Michael and Betty Hawksley founded the boutique back in 1984 their remit was to curate a collection of little-known but intrinsically significant and innovative fragrances from all over the world,” explains resident fragrance archivist, James Craven. “With hindsight one could say that the Hawksleys introduced niche perfumery – a term then unknown – to the UK and in many ways helped define this concept.” Indeed, Les Senteurs introduced Byredo, Diptyque, Creed and Éditions de Parfums Frédéric Malle to the UK. So, can we still count these hugely successful, international houses as niche?
“Ironically, the term itself has become rather ubiquitous, and one could even say it now dominates the fragrance world – a far cry from its origins,” says James. “As such, some perfume brands that naturally fall into this category might prefer to describe themselves as ‘creative’ or ‘artistic’ fragrance houses. Now, despite the common usage, there is still a certain expectation when it comes to ‘niche’ fragrances.” Craven outlines the hallmarks of a niche fragrance: “one expects an emphasis on the juice (quality, originality and creativity thereof) as opposed to the marketing of the brand; a sense of authenticity, of it being born of an individual’s personality and creative viewpoint, often experimenting with a more extensive olfactory palette or more original accords than is evident in commercial fragrances.”
Does that mean the commercial houses have lost their edge? “I don’t believe the major brands have stalled – they still continue to do what they’ve always done very successfully,” James explains. “The difference is the rapid rise and success of niche brands which is appealing to a much wider audience and therefore growing at a much faster rate in comparison. The major brands are proactively embracing elements of the niche market – smaller launches, more interesting fragrances, less reliance on the advertising campaign and more focus on the juice but ultimately their appeal is geared towards the universal whereas niche focuses on the individual.”
It’s all about us, you see, and we’re a picky bunch. Consumers are “more demanding in their desire for novelty, quality, variety and transparency – all of which keeps perfumers up to the mark. Previously ‘underground’ brands can now have their own share of voice. Independent brands are often able to offer something unique and many shoppers are on a quest to find a scent that is unknown by anyone else and therefore feels like their own signature, or ‘the one’,” says James.
They also keep the tills ringing. In 2019 the Fragrance Foundation released a report showing that the fragrance industry was worth £7.1 billion to the UK economy in 2018, with 24% – or £1.8 billion – spent directly on perfume, eau de toilette and aftershave. This is understandable when you consider that the average price for a quality scent has been heading north for quite some time. Is this to take advantage of the super wealthy who stalk the floor at Harrods, or are the steep prices justifiable? “Perfume creation is rarely low cost especially when it comes to producing innovative fragrances in small batches,” explains James, “it is not a case of choosing a high price point to give the impression of exclusivity. Generally, the price will reflect the careful sourcing of raw materials which nowadays is much more discerning and ethical, and methods of production which are extremely precise and exacting.”
Reassuringly expensive, beautifully packaged and pushing the olfactive envelope, a niche fragrance can feel like a true ‘find’. Here are eight names and a mix of new and well-loved scents to seek out.
Maison Francis Kurkdjian
Key Scent: L’Homme À la Rose
Francis Kurkdjian is a prolific fragrance creator, working with some of the biggest houses in fashion and fragrance from Burberry, Kenzo and Giorgio Armani to Yves Saint Laurent, Dior, Davidoff and Guerlain. His stellar career began with Jean Paul Gaultier Le Mâle – a global best seller.
His own line, Maison Francis Kurkdjian, launched in 2009. His latest release, L’Homme À la Rose, is a celebration of one of the lesser used florals in men’s fragrance. During his Zoom presentation, he talked about how rose is often paired with dark woods or patchouli and how geranium is the typical floral associated with men. Kurkdjian saw an opportunity for something new; he wanted to pair rose with something ‘light and bright’. The result is a woody floral, with two types of fresh, green rose – Damask and Centifolia – as the central character, with side accents of grapefruit and sage.
“Raw materials have no gender, but social codes give them meaning. Rose is not feminine or masculine; it’s how I blend it. Masculinity is a state of mind. It used to be set around social codes, but these are falling apart. The notion of masculinity, in 20 years time, will not be relevant anymore,” he says. Kurkdjian is claiming rose for stylish men everywhere – wear it with pride.
Shop now at Harvey Nichols
Escentric Molecules
Key Scent: Molecule 05
If the measure of a great scent is comments from peers and strangers alike, Escentric Molecules is a good place to start. Self described as radical, purist and singular, one of the earliest scents, 101, has achieved near cult status for its street-stopping quality and chameleonic ability to take on a different vibe with every wearer.
Each launch consists of a binary pair of numbered fragrances, the Molecule is the single aroma, the Escentric plays with the molecule using further ingredients. The newest addition, Molecule 05, focuses on cashmeran, a synthetic molecule that combines musky woods with sweet, resinous pine. Perfumer Geza Schoen was inspired by the aromas of sun-baked coastal paths around the Med.
Escentric 05 brings together bergamot, orange, laurel, rosemary, juniper and cypress, underscored by labdanum and mastic, with cashmeran and fig. He describes it like “a radiant summer’s day.” Yes, the seasons are changing, but an Indian summer is the best kind of autumn, so we’ll be clinging onto the sun with this.
Shop now at END.
Acqua Di Parma
Key Scent: Colonia Futura
Can a brand still be considered niche if it’s well known? It can, according to Craven, when it stays “true to its brand origins and continues to produce creative, trendsetting, luxurious scents.” Put a tick in the box for Acqua Di Parma.
Sustainability is everyone’s favourite buzzword at the moment but the Italian house are putting it into practice with Colonia Futura. The composition is 99% natural, Protected Designation of Origin ingredients – which is no mean feat. The bakelite lid has been replaced with a recycled and recyclable matt plastic cap and the outer cylinder is made from FSC cardboard. The dispenser can be easily removed for ease of recycling and the label is made using scrap dust from marble quarries (Italy is a major source of both carrara and calacatta).
There’s the common citrus element that ADP is known for; Bergamot from Calabria, as well as lemon and grapefruit. But the combination of clary sage, lavender and pink pepper create a mature, woody scent with a spicy dry down of vetiver, unlike anything else in the ADP range.
Shop now at John Lewis
MEMO Paris
Key Scent: Irish Leather
Founded in 2007 by French-Irish couple Clara and John Molloy, Memo Paris has a distinctive look of maximalist gold patterns and a line of unique scents, created with the help of perfumer Aliénor Massenet, and inspired by their collective travels to distinctive destinations.
There is a boutique in Paris, but you can order to your door via Harvey Nichols and Cult Beauty. Irish Leather is an ode to John’s childhood homeland, and relatable for anyone who’s ever fallen for the damp charms of the Emerald Isle. Juniper, birch and clary sage, green maté (tea) and flouve (hay oil) create an earthy vibe with a smoky leathery undertone that captures the essence of the great Irish landscape.
Shop now at Cult Beauty
Tauer Perfumes
Key Scent: No. 02 L’Air du Désert Marocain
An independent Swiss house, Tauer was launched by perfumer Andy Tauer in 2004, initially as a side hustle from his main job. His scents have been described by admirers as “fragrant sculptures” and the striking deep blue bottles help to convey this message into the world.
His output is divided into self-titled categories: Classics, Homages, PentaChords and Collectibles, which feature variable availability, exclusive ingredients and high concentrations of natural oils.
No. 02 L’Air du Désert Marocain sits in the Classic collection as one of his most popular scents that cemented his reputation as an artist in the fragrance world and it is brought to you exclusively in the UK by Les Senteurs. Spicy top notes of coriander, cumin and a hint of petitgrain reveal a heart of jasmine, rock rose, labdanum and birch and base notes of amber, patchouli and cedar. The balsamic, woody accord conjures Andy Tauer’s own memories of the spicy, dry air of the Maghreb Desert.
Shop now at Les Senteurs
Le Labo
Key Scent: Santal 33
When a big conglomerate starts snapping up independent brands you know they are on to something. Estée Lauder acquired Le Labo in 2014, eight years after it was founded by Eddie Roschi and Fabrice Penot in New York City.
Buying a niche brand is often easier than creating one, because commercial success is never guaranteed. However, Le Labo has a proven track record of cult unisex scents such as Rose 31, Thé Noir 29 and Baie 19. As a quick explainer, the name is the primary scent and the number refers to the total ingredient count.
Santal 33 is perhaps the most well known – and for good reason. The inspiration came from a particular brand of cigarettes. Think of a cowboy riding the great American plains and you’ve got the idea; crackling campfire, leathery boots, big sky and freedom, conjured by notes of sandalwood, cedarwood, cardamom, iris, violet and ambrox.
Shop now at MR PORTER
Nasomatto
Key Scent: Black Afgano
Founded by Alessandro Gualtieri, Nasomatto takes an eccentric approach to scent. Earlier in his career he worked various big brands and in the UAE. He’s travelled to Oman, Iran and Saudi Arabia and his interest in Middle Eastern perfumery can be felt in his work – these are bold scents.
There are 12 fragrances in the collection and each bottle looks like a small work of art or sculpture, due to the caps crafted from precious woods. Black Afgano is arguably the most well known. The inspiration is hashish and the sweet spot of being stoned (before the paranoia or munchies kick in). Cannabis, coffee, tobacco, incense and oud make up the notes. Green, herbal and a touch soapy – it may temporarily invoke the resinous bud, but it won’t send you as far as the corner shop on the hunt for snacks.
Shop now at AllBeauty
Maison Crivilli
Key Scent: Santal Volcanique
Being a well-heeled, well-travelled European seems to be the basic prerequisite for becoming a perfumer. Thibaud Crivilli isn’t about to break the mould here: he hails from France, spent time China, and his main inspiration stems from our precious natural world.
Santal Volcanique is a mix of fiery spices including cardamom, ginger, coffee and ‘carbonised ylang ylang’ to evoke scorched woods. Hot stuff.
Shop now at Harvey Nichols
The post 8 Niche Fragrance Houses You Should Know appeared first on Ape to Gentleman.
——————–
By: Jessica Punter
Title: 8 Niche Fragrance Houses You Should Know
Sourced From: www.apetogentleman.com/niche-fragrance-houses/?utm_source=rss&utm_medium=rss&utm_campaign=niche-fragrance-houses
Published Date: Wed, 09 Sep 2020 08:00:34 +0000
Did you miss our previous article…
https://www.mansbrand.com/what-should-men-wear-in-fall-10-practical-but-stylish-ideas/
Grooming
The Complete Guide to Growing a Beard at Every Age
Beards are not just a trend; they’re a journey. A journey that evolves with you as you age. The process of growing a beard is a fascinating blend of genetics, hormonal changes, lifestyle and personal grooming habits. Each age brings its own set of challenges and opportunities. In this comprehensive beard growing guide, we’ll explain what to expect and explore how to grow and maintain a healthy beard at any age, backed by scientific insights and grooming expertise.
Before we dive into age specifics, it is important to understand the fundamental drivers of beard growth. Some of these we can control, others we cannot.
Genetics and Beard Growth
Genetics determine the number of hair follicles a person has, including those for beard hair. The density and distribution of hair follicles are largely determined by genetic factors inherited from your parents. These factors influence not only the number of follicles but also their responsiveness to hormones like testosterone, which affects beard growth and density. Thus, the ability to grow a thick or full beard is significantly influenced by one’s genetic makeup.
Hormones and Beard Growth
Testosterone, along with its derivative dihydrotestosterone (DHT), plays a pivotal role in beard growth. These hormones are responsible for kickstarting the beard growth process during puberty and maintaining it throughout life. Testosterone stimulates the hair follicles, transforming the soft, fine vellus hair into the coarser, darker terminal hair that forms the beard.
DHT, in particular, is critical for initiating and maintaining facial hair growth. However, the sensitivity of hair follicles to these hormones varies among individuals, explaining why some men grow thicker beards than others. It’s a complex interplay between genetics, hormone levels, and the body’s response to these hormones that ultimately determines the characteristics of your beard. This is why some guys with “low” testosterone can still grow amazingly thick and full beards and some men with “high” testosterone struggle.
Diet, Exercise, and Their Impact on Beard Growth
A balanced diet rich in vitamins (like Biotin, Vitamins A, C, E), minerals (such as Zinc and Iron), and protein plays a crucial role in promoting healthy hair growth, including your beard. Foods like eggs, nuts, leafy greens, lean meats, and dairy products are excellent for supporting hair health.
Regular exercise boosts overall health and improves blood circulation, which can positively affect hair growth by delivering more nutrients and oxygen to the hair follicles. Additionally, weight training can increase your testosterone levels which positively impact beard growth.
Conversely, certain factors can negatively impact beard growth. Poor nutrition, stress, lack of sleep, and smoking can all inhibit beard growth. A high stress lifestyle can particularly take a toll, as stress hormones like cortisol can adversely affect testosterone levels and, consequently, beard growth. Regular exercise, a balanced diet, and a healthy lifestyle are key to promoting not just a healthy beard, but overall well-being.
Now that we have the fundamentals, let’s dive into the age specifics!
Beard Growth in Teens and Early 20s
It seems like there is always one guy in high school with a full beard that would make any man envious. Just like that one 7’ tall guy at school, this is not the norm! So if you are in high school and struggling to grow your face fur, there is not need to worry. Your beard is just getting started. This ramp up stage typically lasts until your early 20s.
During these years, genetics play a pivotal role in determining how your beard will develop. You might notice patchy areas or uneven growth, which is entirely normal. The key during this phase is patience.
Your body is still adjusting to the changes brought on by puberty, including fluctuating hormone levels. To support your beard’s development, focus on a healthy lifestyle. A diet rich in proteins, vitamins, and minerals can boost hair growth. And while a healthy lifestyle promotes better hair growth, it won’t override genetic factors.
Proper skin care is crucial. Gentle cleansing and moisturizing can provide a healthy foundation for hair growth. Avoid over-trimming or using harsh products that could damage your developing beard.
At this stage you likely won’t need a beard oil but should definitely be using a beard friendly moisturizer like HYDRATE that supports healthy skin and beard growth without clogging your pores…you’ve got enough acne to worry about.
It is also important to use a pH balanced cleanser like CLEANSE that properly cleans your face without over-drying which can lead to a vicious cycle of excess oil production and breakouts.
Beard Growth in Mid-20s to 30s
Your mid-20s to 30s are often considered the golden years for beard growth. As a matter of fact, most men don’t hit peak beard growth until their early to mid thirties. This is when testosterone, the hormone primarily responsible for facial hair growth, peaks. You’ll likely notice your beard becoming fuller and more robust.
This is the perfect time to experiment with different beard styles and find what suits you best.
Establish a beard care routine that includes regular washing, exfoliating, and and moisturizing to keep your beard and the underlying skin in top condition. We’ve created a skincare line specifically designed for men with facial hair that takes all the guess work out of your grooming routine. You can learn more about our beard care products here.
Grooming tools like a good quality trimmer, a boar bristle brush, and scissors are essential for maintaining the shape and health of your beard.
Beard Growth in the 40s and 50s
As you enter your 40s and 50s, you might start noticing some changes. Your beard may grow slower, and gray hairs may begin to appear. This is due to a natural decrease in testosterone levels and the aging process affecting your hair follicles.
Adjust your beard care routine to these new changes. If you experience thinning, consider using gentle supplements designed to support hair health.
Embracing the gray can add a distinguished look to your beard. If it is not your vibe, there are beard dyes available. And while there are no pills or supplements proven to reverse the graying process, there have been several scientific breakthroughs that will hopefully lead to products that actually reverse graying.
If you’re not already using a beard oil in addition to your moisturizer, now is the time to add it in. This is because your body will start producing less sebum (oil) which leads to dry, coarser facial hair.
Beard Growth in the 60s and Beyond
In your 60s and beyond, the rate of beard growth might slow down further, and the texture can change, becoming coarser or wirier. This is partly due to decreased sebum production, leading to drier hair, and changes in the hair follicles themselves.
At this stage, comfort and health should be your priority. Opt for softer grooming tools to accommodate more sensitive skin. Keeping your beard and skin hydrated is more important than ever. If you prefer to keep the grays at bay, choose gentle, natural coloring products that are kind to your skin and hair.
Growing a beard is a personal and evolving journey unique to every man. From the first signs of facial hair in your teens to the distinguished look of a mature beard, each phase of growth brings its own challenges and rewards. Embrace each stage, care for your beard with patience and dedication, and enjoy the transformation. Remember, your beard is a reflection of your life’s journey – wear it proudly!
HOME
——————–
By: Nicholas Karnaze
Title: The Complete Guide to Growing a Beard at Every Age
Sourced From: www.stubbleandstache.com/blogs/blog/the-complete-guide-to-growing-a-beard-at-every-age
Published Date: Fri, 08 Dec 2023 22:09:27 +0000
Did you miss our previous article…
https://mansbrand.com/horizontal-vs-vertical-stripes-fact-and-fiction-about-striped-clothing/
Grooming
Horizontal vs. Vertical Stripes | Fact and Fiction About Striped Clothing
Q: I’ve heard in the past that horizontal stripes make someone look wider and vertical stripes make them look taller and thinner. But I keep seeing studies going back and forth whether this is true. Who do I believe?
A: Three decades or so of research on this question have yielded inconsistent results. A more recent study seems to show that this is because the answer is actually more complicated than we all would like.
BACKGROUND:
There’s a famous optical illusion called the Helmholtz Illusion, discovered by a man named Helmholtz in 1867.
- Which of these squares looks thinner and taller than the other? Most people would say the left square looks thinner and taller.
But that seems to go against the conventional wisdom that horizontal stripes make a person look fatter/wider. Wouldn’t it be the other way around?
- A number of studies have tested this effect and have found conflicting results. Why would fashion work differently than this famous optical illusion?
- Three Japanese researchers noticed some interesting patterns in the previous research. They all presented pictures of models wearing either horizontal or vertical stripes. However, they weren’t using the same models: some were fat and some were thin. Additionally, they were all shaded differently. And finally, they were presented in various orders.
- These researchers decided there were multiple factors at play here and published a study testing their hypotheses in the journal i-Perception in 2013.
- The researchers did a number of studies testing the possibility that three factors were influencing all the previous research on this subject that has been conducted:
Whether the model is slim or fat.
Whether previous judgments of other people influence later judgments of different people.
Whether judgments are so varied between people that the whole thing isn’t very useful.
EXPERIMENT:
- 31 undergraduate students (63% female) were recruited for the study.
- The students were placed in a chair and put their chin in a chin rest that ensured that their eyes were a certain distance from a computer screen.
- A number of computer images were flashed in the screens depicting people wearing clothing with either horizontal or vertical lines.
- The size of the images was digitally altered to be either slim or wide.
- Two figures were shown side-by-side for 1.8 seconds. One had horizontal stripes and the other had vertical stripes. Then, participants were to judge which of the images were fatter and press a key indicating their response.
- This method was done 20 times with slim figures and 20 times with fat figures, or with the fat figures first and then the slim figures.
RESULTS:
So what do you think – is conventional wisdom true for fashion, or is the Helmholtz Illusion the main driving factor?
- The conventional wisdom was not found to be true. Horizontal stripes don’t make people look fatter and vertical stripes don’t make people look slimmer and taller.
- BUT sometimes the stripes didn’t really make a difference at all.
Which factors influenced whether the Helmholtz Illusion held true for the figures?
- Size of the Model:
- YES. Slender models look even thinner with horizontal stripes (supporting the Helmholtz Illusion and going against conventional wisdom).
- But this effect was not as strong for the wide models – for wide models, the type of stripe BY ITSELF actually didn’t have as much of an influence at all.
- Order of Presentation:
- YES. Here’s an interesting result. When SLENDER models were shown first to people, and then wide models, the Helmholtz Illusion was strongest of all (Horizontal stripes make people seem taller and slenderer) for both groups. This applied to both fat and slender images. Again, conventional wisdom does not seem to hold.
- When the wide models were shown first, the type of stripe did NOT seem to matter for anyone.
- Variance Between Observers:
- YES. Significantly, the researchers found that, even though there were noticeable results when they compared averages, there was a wide variety of results across all participants.
DISCUSSION:
So how do we interpret the results of this experiment? Here are some important conclusions that can be inferred from the results:
In no case was the conventional wisdom found to be true. Horizontal stripes did not, on the whole, make someone look wider. Vertical stripes, on the whole, did not make a person look taller and slimmer.
In fact, where there was an effect, it supported the opposite conclusion.
Horizontal stripes made slender people look taller and slenderer.
On the fatter models, the kinds of stripes made much less difference.
People’s judgments seemed to be more influenced by what models they had previously judged.
For some reason (that the authors did not fully understand) when participants judged a large group of slender people first, the Helmholtz Illusion got very strong.
What does this mean for laypeople?
It means that when we view a person, we are mentally comparing them to people we have already seen.
Here’s the (very strange but scientifically supported) bottom line:
- If a fat person is going to an event full of thin people, horizontal stripes may actually make them look slimmer and taller.
Why? The researchers weren’t sure.
Finally, there was another big take-away:
There was so much variation between participants in the study that the researchers concluded that stripes may not really, on the whole, make that huge of a difference.
This would explain why all the previous studies since the ‘80s were inconsistent.
This makes it seem like, unless you want to make a calculated, complex decision based on the results in this study, you might make your fashion selections based on other factors instead of whether the stripes are horizontal or vertical.
Whenever science doesn’t seem to go one way or the other, I say trust your own personal judgment.
REFERENCE
Ashida, H., Kuraguchi, K., & Miyoshi, K. (2013). Helmholtz illusion makes you look fit only when you are already fit, but not for everyone. I-Perception, 4, 347-351. Link: https://ipe.sagepub.com/content/4/5/347.short
The post Horizontal vs. Vertical Stripes | Fact and Fiction About Striped Clothing appeared first on Real Men Real Style.
——————–
By: Antonio Centeno
Title: Horizontal vs. Vertical Stripes | Fact and Fiction About Striped Clothing
Sourced From: www.realmenrealstyle.com/horizontal-vs-vertical-stripes/
Published Date: Thu, 07 Dec 2023 15:29:48 +0000
Grooming
Harvey Specter Style
There’s a lot to envy about Harvey Specter.
The outrageous confidence, the power, the prestige…
The sharp comebacks… and the ultra-sharp suits.
Harvey dresses like he does everything else – strategically.
“People respond to how we’re dressed…
So like it or not, this is what you have to do.”
Everyone’s appearance sends a message – and everything about his says loud and clear:
“I’m not about caring, I’m about winning.”
Of course, he does care – he cares about Mike, he cares about Donna, and he cares about his personal code of ethics. But that’s not the message he chooses to send. There’s nothing soft about his look.
”If they think you care, they’ll walk all over you.”
Read on to find out how to get the sharp and powerful Harvey Specter look.
Okay, let’s break this down. What are the main elements of Harvey Specter’s style strategy? Number 1, of course, has to be…
1. The Suit
Harvey is virtually ALWAYS seen in an expensive suit. Gabriel Macht, who plays him, says: ‘He’s a man of style… we really wanted him to be this man’s man. A real masculine, strong, Steve McQueen-type of guy who could pull off a three piece suit and make it a modern thing, wide lapels and all.’
How does Harvey pull off his suits? Using two things you can learn right here at RMRS – confidence and the style pyramid of fit, fabric, and function. The fit of his suits is always on point, which takes extra effort for men with a tall body type (Gabriel Macht is 6’0.5?/183cm.) The fabrics are top quality – early season suits were mostly dark high twisted worsted wool, but recently he’s wearing silk-wool blends that add an unusual shine.
And as for function (appropriateness for the situation)? As a workaholic hotshot lawyer, Harvey lives for high-powered formal situations where a suit is required. He doesn’t suit up when it’s outright inappropriate… which means we see him in something else a good 2% of the time.
Harvey has a medium contrast complexion and dresses well for it, most often pairing gray, charcoal, and occasionally navy or black suits with white shirts. Gray and white form a sleek, classic combination that shows he means serious business.
Where a man with just one or two suits might stick to solid colors and maybe a pinstripe, Harvey has a wardrobe of different suit patterns including sharkskin, Prince of Wales checks and stripes – he prefers the bolder rope stripes to pinstripes (pinstripes are just one thread wide, rope stripes are several.)
He wears a slim fit with high armholes and strong structured shoulders – highlighting his athletic physique. Wide peak lapels give him a powerful broad-shouldered ‘v’ shape – the key to wearing them like he does is to get the gorge of the lapel not too high and not too low. If it peaks out over your shoulders, it is too much, and if it is too low it looks too old school.
Peak lapels are more formal – he sets himself apart by wearing them (except sometimes when he’s in a three-piece suit, which is more formal anyway). Because they’re more common on a tuxedo, on a business suit they suggest authority and/or arrogance.
Taking a deeper dive into suit jacket details, the big flap pockets on his jackets are a little unusual with peak lapels; jetted pockets are more normal.
You might expect to see a three-button suit on him because he’s a ‘buttoned up’ character and it would suit his tall athletic build. However, Harvey knows TWO buttons are the best choice for a single-breasted suit with peak lapels. It’s a classic elegant look that’s been around since the 1920s – two buttons leave room for longer lapels and accentuate them more.
His jacket cuffs, on the other hand, are as formal and buttoned-up as they get, with four buttons on each. The more buttons on the cuffs, the more formal the jacket, with single buttons denoting a sports jacket.
Pants are slim but not tight, with an ironed crease down the front, no pleats, no break and usually no cuffs. This suits his strict character – very neat and no fuss.
2. The Shirts
Harvey mostly wears plain white dress shirts – again, the most formal color. He also favors pale blue, and occasionally a gingham or stripe. The tall semi-spread collars accentuate his ‘v’ shape.
His shirts are very well fitted and always let a sliver of cuff show outside his jacket. He usually prefers simple classic button cuffs, but occasionally goes for the fancier French cuffs and cufflinks.
3. The Accessories
“Get your skinny tie out of my face and get to work.”
Harvey’s ties are always silk – navy grenadine is a favorite. Dark purple and black are other favorite colors. His look is VERY monochrome – it’s part of the character.
His ties vary between 3 and 3.5 inches wide, a classic width. He doesn’t wear anything too young and trendy. His wider ties and lapels contrast with Mike’s skinny ones and make him look more powerful.
He favors the full Windsor tie knot – a powerful, formal, ‘serious business’ knot that marks him out as a guy who knows how to dress and looks great with his wide lapels and semi-spread collars.
He’s rarely seen without a dimple in his ties, showing he knows how to dress and pays attention to the details. The one time his tie dimple is off center, Donna notices something is wrong!
With a tux he wears a diamond-pointed bow tie instead of the normal shape. That’s quirkier than you’d expect from him, but it’s like the peak lapels – sharp and pointed – which suits his aggressive and incisive mind.
He always wears a pocket square in a square Presidential fold, usually white or gray. A white pocket square in a square fold is as formal as they come and suits his businesslike, no-nonsense image. You won’t see him with a flower in his lapel – this is a hard and sharp look, nothing soft or romantic on this determinedly unemotional guy. To finish the look, he chooses simple and bold metal cufflinks.
Earlier in the series, Harvey was seen wearing a bold statement chronograph watch with a leather strap – a status symbol meant to mark him out as a successful man. The watch has since disappeared because of the technical constraints of filming for TV. Gabriel Macht says:
‘As great as the show is, it really doesn’t lend itself to detail. Other than some necklaces you might see Jessica wear, you don’t see any jewelry.’
#4. The Shoes
Because of the nature of TV, you don’t often see Harvey’s shoes, and they’re not a big focus of his costume. He’s been seen in black cap-toed derbies, and black or brown oxford brogues – all classic smart dress shoes, although brown full brogues are a bit more casual than you’d expect from him.
5. Casual Clothing
Aside from the suit, he’s been seen in a classic black button-down shirt; well-fitting jeans; a white or heathered grey henley; beige chinos; and a navy v-neck and coat over a white shirt. (Not a casual shirt, by the way, just a dress shirt like he’d wear to the office – showing his wardrobe, like his life, is mostly work.)
6. The Hair
In 2011 Gabriel Macht said of Harvey’s original slicked-back do, “It’s supposed to be the modern version of the old-style man’s haircut, sort of like Gregory Peck or Cary Grant.”
But as more sides of the character have emerged his hair has evolved- now it’s more vertical, but still strict and structured, featuring a tight side-part (on the left side) with a subtle pompadour in the front.
To get this look, you need the sides cut short (not buzzed) and some length on top.
Run a strong hold gel (or pomade for less shine) through towel dried hair then blow dry on a low heat while combing the front upwards. The longer you blow-dry the front, the more volume you’ll get.
Then apply more gel and use your comb to cut the side-part and sculpt the front hair up and back. Fix with a little hairspray.
If you prefer his earlier slicked-back style, you want a similar cut with squared-off sideburns and a square neckline and shaved part. Again, apply some gel to your hair before blow-drying, then comb it back with pomade and set with hairspray.
I don’t recommend that every man dresses exactly like Harvey Specter. It’s a very stark monochromatic look, and for guys with more fun and warmth in their personalities, it might not suit you. You can emulate his confidence without exactly copying his look.
What I DO recommend is that you copy Harvey Specter in dressing strategically. Think about what YOUR message is, and make sure every stitch on your body and every hair on your head communicates it.
‘Get it through your head – first impressions last.’
The post Harvey Specter Style appeared first on Real Men Real Style.
——————–
By: Antonio Centeno
Title: Harvey Specter Style
Sourced From: www.realmenrealstyle.com/harvey-specter/
Published Date: Mon, 04 Dec 2023 18:04:09 +0000
-
M Brand1 day agoDiscover Natural Remedies For Enlarged Prostate vs Pharmaceuticals
-
M Brand5 days ago
Discover The Benefits Of Improving Problem Solving Skills In Everyday Life
-
Grooming5 days ago
ONE Cologne Men Should Buy? Jeremy Fragrance Recommendations
-
Baller Awards5 days ago
Geoff Keighley invites you to The Game Awards 2023. Watch the impressive trailer for the event
-
Baller Awards5 days ago
FIFA Men’s World Rankings December 2023: Top 20 Nations
-
Grooming7 days ago
The 30 Most Popular Men’s Fragrance Brands
-
Frontier Adventure4 days ago
Red Sprites are Best Seen from Space
-
Travel5 days ago
Tips for Solo Female Travel in Sri Lanka
You must be logged in to post a comment Login