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I see so many guys who dress to the nines but fail when correctly pairing their shirt collar design with the rest of their outfit. No big deal, right?

Wrong – wearing the wrong collar can ruin your entire outfit (especially if you’re wearing a tie!) The different structures, shapes, and designs make a huge difference in how your shirt looks.

As ever, it’s my job to make sure you guys put your best foot forward. In today’s article, I’m laying out the ground rules to help you understand the dos and don’ts of men’s shirt collars.

We’ll be covering:

  1. Quick Shirt Collar History
    • Why Did Men Start To Wear Shirt Collars?
    • Detachable Collars
    • Lighter Fabrics and the Polo Shirt
    • White Collar & Blue Collar
  2. Men’s Shirt Collar Overview
    • What are the Shirt Collar Parts?
    • Collar Stays
    • How is a Shirt Collar Constructed?
    • What Should Shirt Collars Fit?
    • Fabric & Materials
    • Soft Vs Stiff
  3. Choosing the Best Collar For You
    • Face Size
    • Face Shape
  4. Popular Men’s Collar Types
    • Classic Point Collar
    • Wide Spread Collar
    • Cutaway Collar
    • Button-Down Collar
    • Pin Collar
    • Tab Collar
    • Wing Collar
    • Club Collar
    • Square Collar
    • Band Collar

#1 Shirt Collar History

Why Men Started To Wear Shirt Collars

William Shakespeare wearing a version of the “Neck Ruff” collars of the mid-1400s.

The first men’s shirt collar design appeared in the mid-1400s. Before this, men wore tonics with a boat neckline or scoop neckline. These collars were huge and could stand up on their own, and were at the peak of their popularity during the 16th-century.

Early “Neck Ruff” collars were seen as a status symbol for the elite members of society. Many portraits of this era feature this type of collar.

Detachable Shirt Collars

A vintage ad from 1906 for detachable collars and cuffs for boys and men.

Collars and cuffs were the most visible parts of the shirt during the 19th Century. As such, they were the most likely part to get dirty. To avoid doing huge amounts of laundry, detachable collars were invented.

This would allow men to clean the collars of their shirts without washing the rest of the garment. A helpful feature, as modern laundry technology was not yet invented. These collars were excessively starched and shaped in many different ways.

During this era of men’s shirt collars (the mid to late 1800s), the various dress shirt collar design we know today started to develop.

Lighter Fabrics and The Polo Shirt

two men wearing polo shirts
Buddy Austin and Rene Lacoste sporting an early polo shirt in 1928.

A detachable shirt collar design with extreme starch began to fade in popularity in the 1920s and 1930s. With the invention of central heating and other luxuries, men began to look for clothing with lighter fabrics.

Men found that soft collared shirts could be wrinkle-free without the extra starch by ironing them. This would allow men to wear lighter fabrics, and shirts made out of linen and lightweight cotton became the standard.

With the advent of soft collars, the invention of the polo shirt by Rene Lacoste was in 1933. The name “polo shirt” was inspired by Lacoste’s polo-playing friend, who gave him the idea for the iconic shirt.

White Collar vs. Blue Collar

It was around the same time that lighter fabrics came into fashion when the vernacular of White Collar & Blue Collar began.

This distinction originated because of laundry issues. Men at desk jobs could keep their white shirts clean, but men with manual labor jobs favored the dark fabric colors that could hide dirt more easily.

Today, this kind of distinction is still made. However, men in a modern office can wear blue shirts without being accused of dressing inappropriately. The lines have been blurred between strictly wearing a white or blue-collar based on your job.

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#2 Men’s Shirt Collar Overview

What Are The Parts Of The Shirt Collar?

collar 2020 for article 01
  1. Collar Points – The tips of the collar.
  2. Collar Point Length – The distance from the Collar Points to where they meet the Collar Band.
  3. CollarBand – The piece of fabric that wraps around the neck.
  4. Collar Height – The height of a folded collar as it fits on the neck.
  5. Tie Space – The distance between the top of the folded collar parts where the shirt is buttoned.
  6. Collar Spread – The angle between Collar Points.

Collar Stays

dress shirt collar underside collar stay

Also called “Collar Tabs” or “Collar Stiffeners,” Collar Stays are flat, rigid pieces of material inserted in special pockets on the underside of both collar points. They can be removable or sewn in.

Collar Stays can be made of plastic, stainless steel, brass, and gold, among other materials. Some even feature magnets to hold the collar in place even more.

How is a Shirt Collar Constructed?

Most shirt collar designs are constructed with what is called a Collar Stand. A Collar Stand is a frame that makes the collar stand up and is why most shirt collars feel thicker than the rest of the shirt.

The Collar Stand can either be separate or integrated into the collar construction. Most integrated stands are used for thin shirt collars such as polo shirts or casual button-down collar shirts.

Some shirt collars have a separate Collar Stand that sits closer to the neck than the integrated collar stand. A separate frame is found in most dress shirts and military uniforms as it gives the collar more height, thickness, and lift.

What is the Correct Shirt Collar Fit?

dress shirt collar fit

For the perfect shirt collar fit, two fingers should be able to slide comfortably between the neck and collar of a shirt with the top button closed. It is essential to nail the fit as it can be painful to get it wrong.

Collar Fabric & Materials

Most collars are made of the same material as the rest of the shirt. The thickness of the collar comes from the construction, as previously mentioned.

Sometimes shirt collars can be made with a different fabric to add a flair, such as the popular contrasting collar and cuff style, which Michael Douglas popularized in the classic film, Wall Street.

Soft Collar Vs. Stiff Collar

The softer a collar, the more casual it is. The stiffer a collar is, the more formal it is. There are exceptions, but this is a good rule to follow when picking shirt collars.

#3 Choosing the Best Shirt Collar for Your Face

collar 2020 for article 17

When choosing the best shirt collar design, you must consider both the size of your face and its shape.

It is also important to remember that you can wear any shirt collar design you want to; however, some shirt collar types may suit you better than others.

For instance, if you have a round face, it would be wise to choose a point collar to balance this out more. On the other hand, choose a spread or cutaway collar if you have an oblong face.

Classic Point Collar

classic point dress shirt collar design

Of all dress shirt collar designs, the Point Collar is probably the one you are most familiar with, as it makes up around 90% of the dress shirt collar types worldwide. With an average collar spread of 1 inch to 3 inches or 50-70 degrees, the Point Collar works well with a necktie or without.

This style also typically has a Collar Height of 1-2 inches and a collar point of 2-3 inches in length. Manufacturers use this collar type for most shirts because it will appease the majority of wearers.

The Point Collar is best for men with a wide or round face — however, most facial shapes and sizes are flattered with this collar style.

When worn with a jacket, the collar points will not be covered by the lapels. This collar also won’t show any part of your tie other than the knot as the spread is so small.

Wide Spread Collar

wide spread shirt collar design

Just as the name states, The Wide Spread shirt collar design is a collar that has a broader collar spread.

Typically, the spread is anywhere from 4 inches to 6 inches between the collar points with an average point angle of between 45 degrees and 60 degrees.

This collar is a popular option when wearing wider tie knots like the Windsor and Half-Windsor. A Wide Spread Collar will also allow you to wear ties made with thicker material such as wool.

This collar is best suited for a man with thin or long facial features. Men with round faces should try to avoid these collars as they will make their faces look even more round.

Cutaway Collar

cutaway shirt collar design

The Cutaway Collar is a spread collar with an extremely wide distance between the Collar Points.

A distance over six inches between Collar Points qualify as a Cutaway Collar. Sometimes this collar can even have a 180-degree angle, forming a straight horizontal line.

The cutaway shirt collar design is a favorite in Italian tailoring and requires a large tie knot if you wear a tie. However, this style works best without a tie with the top button or two open.

Button-Down Point Collar

button down shirt collar design

A much more casual option, the Button-Down Point Collar has a rich history in menswear.

Initially worn by English polo players, Brooks Brothers brought this European style to the United States, quickly becoming a favorite.

This style features buttonholes at the very tip of each Collar Point, corresponding to a small button on each side of the shirt front. This shirt is the least formal collar choice.

Even though some European fans of Sprezzatura wear this collar with the collar point buttons open to project confidence and nonchalance, I recommend always having the collar point buttons fastened.

The nice thing about the Button-Down Point Collar is that it is suitable for any face shape, making it highly versatile.

Pin Collar

pin v

The Pin Collar has small holes in each point, which allows the insertion of a pin or bar placed behind the tie – which thrusts the tie forward and puts more emphasis on your tie knot.

Pin Collars must be worn with a tie as the empty holes, and flapping tabs would present an untidy appearance.

Today, Dandies favor this collar, and most have the confidence to pull it off. Pins, Bars, and Clips can all be used for the holes in the Pin Collar. These should be matched to any other metals you wear, such as a wristwatch or metal band.

It has fallen out of popularity due to the “fussy” nature of the collar, which most men do not want to deal with.

Tab Collar

tab shirt collar design

A cousin to the Pin Collar, Tab Collars are a vintage collar option and one that has been having a bit of a resurgence in recent times.

This unique collar features a tab across the middle, which attaches to the top button with a hook-and-loop closure that sits behind your tie. This forces the tie forward and up, creating a “standing” look for the tie.

Because of the tab, you cannot wear this collar without a tie. Tab Collars flatter men with longer necks the most. The higher stance of the tie knot helps to diminish a long neck.

Tab Collars have been popping up more and more today, with the most notable wearer being Daniel Craig as James Bond in both Skyfall and No Time To Die.

Wing Collar

wing shirt collar design

Reserved for highly formal events, the Wing Collar is a minimalist collar that was very popular in the early 20th Century.

“Wingtip” or “Winged” are alternative names for a Wing Collar. This is because the small tips resemble the open wings of a bird.

You can wear a Wing Collar with a standard necktie or bow tie, but the latter is more common. Most men wear this collar for a vintage look in either black or white-tie situations.

Worn mainly in the service industry (butlers/valets/waiters, this collar flatters a narrow face the most.

Club Collar

club shirt collar design

The Club Collar has a narrow spread and vintage appearance.

Students at Eton College created this collar for their uniforms as young students were looking for a way to stand out and show that they attended Eton.

The round nature of this collar makes it perfect for a smaller face. If worn with a larger head, a Club Collar will make your head look much larger than it is.

Square Collar

square shirt collar design

Closely related to the Club Collar, the Square Collar is another collar from the early 20th Century.

A Square Collar has a very minimal spread. The title of “Square” comes from the squared-off collar points.

These were typically worn in detachable form but are hard to find. Most of the time, private school children in England wear this collar type.

Band Collar

band shirt collar design

Found in many Eastern Cultures, the Band Collar is a bold choice for any man.

The Band Collar is the most unique dress shirt collar type as some do not even consider it a shirt collar! This collar must be worn tieless and is challenging to pull off, but a man with a shorter neck could wear it without much trouble.

If worn by a man with a long next, the Band Collar would look extremely strange and out of place. Mandarin jackets also feature this collar style.

Doctor Evil wore this collar famously in the spy spoof series Austin Powers. Many contemporary musical conductors and maestros wear this style jacket with a standard point collar underneath.

Now that you know what dress shirt collar type is right for you, click here to check out my guide on matching your tie to your suit and shirt, or check out the video below.

 

The post Dress Shirt Collar Types For Men | Ultimate Guide to Shirt Collars appeared first on Real Men Real Style.

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By: Antonio
Title: Dress Shirt Collar Types For Men | Ultimate Guide to Shirt Collars
Sourced From: www.realmenrealstyle.com/dress-shirt-collars-men/
Published Date: Thu, 09 Jun 2022 11:59:00 +0000

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How to wear your watch correctly

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As much as you won’t like hearing this, you’re probably wearing your watch wrong.

It’s not your fault; you may have never been taught how to wear a watch properly. After all, there is more than one way to wear a watch.

But how do you know which way is the right way?

Don’t worry, gents; as always, I’ve got you covered. I’m here with the best way to wear your favorite timepiece properly and look as stylish as ever.

In today’s article, I’ll be covering:

  1. Origins Of The Wrist Watch
  2. What Wrist Do You Wear A Watch On?
  3. Should You Wear Your Watch Facing Inward Or Outward?
  4. The Stylish Way To Wear A Watch

#1 Origins Of The Wrist Watch

old watches

When it comes to wearing a watch correctly, it’s important to note why the wristwatch came about in the first place.

Dating back to the 1800s, the first watches modified to be worn on the wrist were primarily worn by women as accessories. One of the earliest was created by Patek Philippe as a fashion accessory.

At the start of the 20th century, watchmakers became intrigued about using a wrist-worn timepiece for men in the military. They believed it would help them tell time quickly while on the battlefield.

Watchmakers started modifying pocket watches to fit on a bracelet worn on the wrist. Men would not wear the first iteration of the modern wristwatch until well into the 20th century.

Then developed as a ‘trench watch’ for military use, the earliest wrist watches offered something the pocket watch didn’t have – convenience.

After the wristwatch became less of a fashion accessory and more of a functional tool, watchmakers would spend the next century modifying them into the modern wristwatches we enjoy today.

#2 What Wrist Do You Wear A Watch On?

man wears watch

The age-old question: what wrist to wear a watch on? The answer – it depends.

The reason it depends is that since the creation of the wristwatch, men have mostly worn their watch on their non-dominant wrist. And since most people are right-handed, you would wear your watch on your left wrist.

But this isn’t always the correct answer. You may want to wear your watch on the right wrist if you are left-handed. But you may also want to wear it on your dominant hand.

So how do you know for sure?

The most significant benefit of wearing your watch on your non-dominant hand is that you can quickly put the watch on and navigate the dial more efficiently than with your non-dominant hand.

Wearing your watch on your non-dominant hand is less likely to damage the watch as you tend to do more with your dominant hand. If you were to wear it on your dominant hand, you’re more likely to scratch or ding the watch than on your non-dominant hand.

So the rule of thumb here is to wear your watch on your non-dominant hand for the best way to navigate and protect your watch.

#3 Should You Wear Your Watch Facing Inward Or Outward?

watch facing inside

The next question is, why would a man wear his watch facing inward on his wrist instead of outward?

This trend is seen primarily in individuals who need to check their watch frequently and in the most efficient way possible. Among the many reasons you should wear a watch, one of the most common is to support you in your profession.

You will see men in the military do this, as it’s easier and prevents sun glare better than when it’s on the outside of the wrist. It also offers faster convenience to other tools on the watch in addition to the time.

Another reason you may want to wear your watch facing inward is that it can help protect your watch from scratches and dings. Again, this is just a preference.

But you’re a stylish guy looking for the best way to wear his watch. What should you do?

The answer here is to wear it facing outward, as that is the most common way to wear a wristwatch. It shows off your timepiece that you love while also still being functional.

Unless you’re in a profession where you need to check your watch quickly while managing other tasks, the best way is to have your watch facing outward. After all, you probably didn’t spend money on that beautiful timepiece to hide its character.

#4 The Stylish Way To Wear A Watch

stylish watch

Now it’s time to find out exactly how to wear a watch in the most stylish way a guy can.

Assuming you’ve selected the right size watch for your wrist, the first thing you want to do is figure out if you’ll be wearing your watch on your right or left wrist.

As mentioned above, traditionally, the watch is worn on your non-dominant wrist. So if you’re right-handed, this means wearing your watch on your left wrist. For left-handed guys, this means your right wrist.

After you figure that out, it’s quite easy. The first thing you want to do is locate your wrist bone.

You want to wear your watch face up just above your wrist bone. If done correctly, your watch should slightly peek out from under the cuffs of your shirt when wearing long sleeves.

Next, you want to tighten the strap so it’s loose enough to be comfortable. You don’t want it so loose it can spin freely around your wrist. You also don’t want it too tight, or it will feel uncomfortable, especially when you bend your wrist.

After doing this correctly, you’ll be wearing a watch in the most stylish way possible.

There you have it, gents.

Now you no longer have to worry about wearing your watch incorrectly.

There is more than one way to wear a watch, so find what’s most comfortable for you personally, and rock your favorite timepiece accordingly.

If you want to take your watch knowledge to the next level, check out this article I wrote about the difference between quartz and mechanical watches.

The post How To Wear A Watch The Right Way appeared first on Real Men Real Style.

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By: Antonio
Title: How To Wear A Watch The Right Way
Sourced From: www.realmenrealstyle.com/wear-watch-right-way/
Published Date: Sat, 30 Jul 2022 10:19:42 +0000

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Fall Capsule Wardrobe Preparation (Buy Now and Get $$$)

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We’ve all been there – fall comes around, and you open your closet only to find you have nothing but polos and shorts.

So what’s a stylish guy to do? Pay a premium to build an entire fall wardrobe last minute? Sure, if you’re loaded. But not every guy is that lucky!

Don’t worry; as ever, I’ve got you covered. In today’s article, I’ll show you how to get the best bang for your buck when building your fall capsule wardrobe.

We’ll be covering:

  1. What Are The Advantages Of A Capsule Wardrobe?
  2. How Do You Build A Fall Capsule Wardrobe?
  3. Where Can You Find Deals On Fall Clothing?
  4. What Are The Best Fall Capsule Wardrobe Essentials?

#1 What Are The Advantages Of A Capsule Wardrobe?

man in closet

One of the most common headaches guys run into in their closet is having too many clothing options to choose from but not enough of the right options.

While more options aren’t bad, they can be overwhelming, especially when you rarely wear most items. This is where building a capsule wardrobe comes into play.

A capsule wardrobe is a limited selection of clothing items that complement each other. This means you can buy a smaller selection of items and create a larger number of outfits.

This is crucial to understand because most guys don’t have an unlimited budget for buying clothes. A capsule wardrobe allows you to purchase and use items frequently with little redundancy.

But where do you start in building your fall capsule wardrobe?

#2 How Do You Build A Fall Capsule Wardrobe?

fall clothing items

After you have put together the perfect capsule wardrobe, you can start to add a few fall-specific items. This is done by adding a few staple pieces that complement what you already have.

For most, fall offers mild temperatures mixed with slightly warmer temperatures.

This means that layering will be of the utmost importance because you may leave the house needing a jacket, but it might be warm enough by midday to sport only the t-shirt underneath.

Start with the basics when building your fall capsule wardrobe and add pieces accordingly.

Keep It Simple

man wearing coat

Fall is primetime for layering, so you only need a few outer layers and should focus more on the innermost layers.

You want to make sure that interchangeability is at the top of your list when it comes to your wardrobe. Everything should complement each other for ease of use.

With that said, having a few staples and adding additional items as you change seasons is essential.

For this reason, ensure you have the following items in your fall capsule wardrobe:

  • A dark three-piece suit 
  • A light-colored tweed blazer
  • A leather bomber or biker jacket
  • An overcoat (dark or light)
  • A formal button-up shirt (white)
  • 2 casual button-up shirts (flannel or chambray, you choose)
  • 2 sweaters (1 shawl, 1 crew neck)
  • 2 t-shirts (1 white, 1 black,)
  • 2 pairs of Jeans (1 dark, 1 light)
  • 2 pairs of slacks/chinos (1 dark, 1 light)
  • 2 belts (1 black, 1 brown)
  • 1 pair of black dress shoes
  • 1 pair of brown oxfords (leather or suede, you decide)
  • 1 pair of sneakers (plain white or brown)
  • 1 pair of military boots (black or brown)

When it comes to accessories like watches, scarves, or gloves, you can use what you have as most men won’t need all of them, so I won’t count them in.

#3 Where Can You Find Deals On Fall Clothing?

clothing on sale

As it is the middle of summer, fall will be approaching quickly.

Now is a great time to snag up some of last year’s sale items at department stores as they usually have sales on previous season items. By now, most men aren’t thinking about what to wear in the fall.

While you still might be able to find good deals on last year’s fall items, it’s usually the most optimal time to purchase these items after the season has ended. This is when retailers try hard to clear space and make room for the next season’s clothing.

When they do this, it is a great time to get excellent deals on items that have just gone out of season.

Another great option to buy men’s clothing is online at your favorite retailers, as they will often have sales and discounts on items they have in their online inventory but are not yet in prime season.

The most expensive items in your fall capsule wardrobe are the ones you want to focus on, as you can often save a significant amount of money out of season for them.

These big ticket items include:

  • Your dark three-piece suit and blazer
  • Overcoats and jackets
  • Dress shoes and sneakers
  • Boots

These items will be some of the most expensive items and can be found discounted out of season. Put these at the forefront of your fall capsule wardrobe search.

#4 What Are The Best Fall Capsule Wardrobe Essentials?

man shopping for clothes

You want to adhere to a few staples when building your fall capsule wardrobe.

Since fall weather can vary, layering will be essential. These few items are crucial as mainstays that can be layered with other items within your wardrobe.

For example, if you experience a rather chilly day in fall and need to wear a suit, an overcoat is essential as that outermost layer because you can simply remove it when you no longer need it.

When it comes to the concept of layering within your fall capsule wardrobe, you want to make sure you nail these following items.

Overcoats

man wearing overcoat

Having a good overcoat to complement your fall capsule wardrobe is crucial.

The overcoat acts as the outermost layer and will be removed whenever you go indoors. This makes for a great option as you can wear it with anything as it offers excellent versatility.

When searching for the perfect overcoat, it’s essential to know your size as they usually come in sizes of suit jackets, not regular sizing. After you’ve nailed the size, focus on color.

Dark-colored overcoats tend to be the most versatile. However, a light camel color can work as well. Stay away from patterns with overcoats as the goal is to be as versatile as possible.

Leather Jackets

leather jackets

A good leather jacket goes a long way. You can choose a leather biker jacket or a leather bomber; it’s your call.

Biker jackets can be slightly harder to pull off as most of the time, they will have a larger and more aggressive collar, but they still look great.

A leather bomber jacket is an excellent option because it looks great on all body types and often has more options than biker jackets.

For color, opt for black or dark brown, as that gives you the most versatility with other items in your fall capsule wardrobe.

Sweaters

man wearing sweater

Sweaters are to fall, what t-shirts are for summer. This means they are a critical piece as they are season specific and offer great versatility when it comes to layering.

So how do you find the perfect sweater?

You want options, so have a couple of different collar choices to give yourself the most bang for your buck.

Having a shawl neck sweater and a crew neck sweater ensures you have all your bases covered.

Make sure you choose neutral tones such as greys, creams, and tans for color. This ensures maximum versatility with other items within your wardrobe and gives you the most options.

That’s it, gents.

To learn more about how versatile this concept of capsule wardrobes can be, check out how I turned 16 pieces of clothing into 256 outfits.

The post Preparing Your Fall Capsule Wardrobe (Buy Now And Save $$$) appeared first on Real Men Real Style.

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By: Antonio
Title: Preparing Your Fall Capsule Wardrobe (Buy Now And Save $$$)
Sourced From: www.realmenrealstyle.com/fall-capsule-wardrobe/
Published Date: Thu, 28 Jul 2022 23:59:00 +0000

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The Best Zara Fragrances

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We all know of Zara and I’m pretty sure the majority of us own at least one piece from them, but I’m not here to talk about their reasonably priced clothing, I’m here for their fragrance.

Not quite a hidden gem but I don’t feel that they vast range and high quality fragrance that they create is given enough air time, I’m about to change that. The fragrance game is massive at the moment, everyone from the big fashion houses all the way to footballers have a scent on the market and they all carry a hefty price tag, with some of the bigger hitters asking in excess of

£100 for 50ml.

Zara clearly understand the need for a great fragrance but also appreciate not everything has to be overly expensive. I’ve been lucky enough to sample my fair share over the years and wanted to share with you what I feel are some of their strongest.

Tobacco Collective 100ml – £16.99

This is one of my absolute favourites, it works perfectly as an everyday scent. The initial smell is strong and masculine but with undertones of vanilla bourbon help to soften it slightly.

4Qbk tFcSNbWj04S58 QXQsAx1NOGJ2EW5BgfYj4Ey67ulm5nUzJMLNq8HMNdkps3FThHVxZUbG2kK7VkQQIumuQtVN2 ww56QbpYBb3oo8vyL0js Gz4QeX1WHYq6r 2 t sNHgJEDHbdwuZg

For Him 100ml – £22.99

My current daily spray, its warm, modern and intense. It just so happens to be the perfect blend of three of my favourite scents, bergamot, cardamom and sandalwood. It’s strong yet light, never over powering and leaves a wonderful trail.

Florence 100ml – £16.24

Summer calls for a fresh fragrance and I cannot recommend this highly enough, its light, fresh and citrus scent is perfectly for those warmer days. Notes of black pepper, strawberry and guaiac wood allow this scent to sit gently on the skin with offending the noses of those around you.

Written by Tom Loughran

The post The Best Of Zara Fragrances first appeared on Mens Fashion Magazine.

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By: MFM
Title: The Best Of Zara Fragrances
Sourced From: www.mensfashionmagazine.com/the-best-of-zara-fragrances
Published Date: Fri, 22 Jul 2022 09:57:00 +0000

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